How to care for a heartleaf philodendron
Philodendron hederaceum (syn. P. scandens)
A trailing jungle vine that copes with less light than most, the heartleaf philodendron drapes glossy heart-shaped leaves from a shelf and roots from every node. Water it when the top inch of compost dries, keep it warm, and give it medium to bright indirect light. It is more shade-tolerant than pothos but, like all aroids, toxic to cats and dogs.
Care at a glance
- Light
- Medium to bright indirect lightGenuinely tolerates a shadier corner than most trailers, though growth slows; keep it out of direct sun, which bleaches and scorches leaves.
- Water
- When the top 2–3 cm of compost is dryLikes to stay lightly moist in growth but never soggy; the leaves curl and droop slightly when it is genuinely thirsty.
- Soil
- Light, free-draining aroid mixMultipurpose compost with added bark and perlite so the fine roots get air.
- Humidity
- Prefers moderate humidity but adapts to dry roomsHigher humidity gives larger, glossier leaves; mist or group with other plants if your home is very dry.
- Temperature
- 16–24 °C (61–75 °F)Keep above 13 °C (55 °F); it dislikes cold draughts and sudden chills.
- Difficulty
- EasyOne of the most beginner-proof vines — forgiving of low light and irregular watering alike.
- Pets
- Toxic to petsToxic to cats and dogs — insoluble calcium oxalate crystals cause oral irritation, drooling and vomiting if chewed (ASPCA).
Where it comes from
Propagation
This is the plant that taught most people to take cuttings. Snip a length of vine just below a node, where you'll often see a small brown aerial root nub, and remove the lowest leaf. Stand it in water and roots appear within one to two weeks.
Once the roots are a few centimetres long, pot the cutting into damp aroid mix; planting three or four rooted cuttings together gives an instantly full plant. You can also pin a node onto the soil while it is still attached to the parent and let it root in place before severing.
Common problems
- Long, bare, leggy stems
Likely cause: Too little light, so the vine stretches and spaces its leaves far apart.
Fix: Move it brighter and pinch back the growing tips to force branching; replant the cuttings into the pot to thicken it up.
- Yellowing leaves
Likely cause: Usually overwatering and waterlogged roots; occasionally an old leaf dying back naturally.
Fix: Let the soil dry more between waterings, ensure the pot drains, and remove the spent leaves.
- Pale or washed-out new leaves
Likely cause: Either too much direct sun bleaching them, or a lack of nutrients in tired compost.
Fix: Shift it out of harsh sun and feed lightly with a balanced houseplant fertiliser during the growing season.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a heartleaf philodendron and pothos?
Their care is almost identical, but the heartleaf has thinner, matte, deeply heart-shaped leaves and single aerial roots, while pothos has thicker, slightly waxy leaves and clustered roots. The philodendron also handles lower light a little better.
How do I make my heartleaf philodendron fuller?
Pinch the vine tips regularly to trigger branching, give it brighter indirect light to keep the leaves close together, and tuck rooted cuttings back into the same pot. A trim that feels drastic quickly grows back bushier.
Can a heartleaf philodendron climb instead of trail?
Yes. Give it a moss pole or trellis and the aerial roots will grip it; climbing plants tend to produce noticeably larger leaves than the same plant left to dangle from a shelf.
Why are the leaves on my philodendron curling?
Curling leaves usually mean it is underwatered or sitting in air that is too dry or too hot. Water it when the top of the soil dries, move it away from radiators, and the new growth should flatten out.
Sources
- RHS — Philodendron — Royal Horticultural Society, checked 2026-06-13
- ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants — Heartleaf Philodendron — ASPCA, checked 2026-06-13