How To Care For Plants

How to care for a Monstera (Swiss cheese plant)

Monstera deliciosa

Care facts verified
Monstera (Monstera deliciosa), the species that wants bright, indirect light
Photo: MokkieCC BY-SA 3.0source

A climbing rainforest aroid, the Monstera deliciosa earns its holey leaves with bright indirect light and a support to scramble up. Let the compost almost dry between thorough drinks, keep it warm and humid, and give it a moss pole — without one, leaves stay small and unfenestrated. Overwatering rots the roots; this plant is toxic to cats and dogs.

Care at a glance

Light
Bright, indirect lightA few feet back from a bright window. It tolerates medium light but makes fewer holes; harsh direct sun scorches the foliage.
Water
When the top 3–5 cm of compost is dryLet it almost dry out, then water thoroughly, ideally with rainwater. Never leave the pot standing in water — the roots rot.
Soil
Chunky, free-draining aroid mixHouse compost with added orchid bark, perlite and a little charcoal so air reaches the thick roots.
Humidity
Enjoys moderate to high humidityHappy in average rooms but grows lusher above 60%; group with other plants or use a pebble tray.
Temperature
Warm, 18–27 °C (64–80 °F)Keep above 13 °C (55 °F) and away from cold draughts.
Difficulty
EasyForgiving and fast-growing once it has light, warmth and something to climb.
Pets
Toxic to petsToxic to cats and dogs — insoluble calcium oxalate crystals cause oral burning, drooling and vomiting if chewed. The ripe fruit is edible, but unripe parts and foliage are not (ASPCA).

Where it comes from

Native rangeTropical rainforests of southern Mexico and Central America

Propagation

Monstera propagates from stem cuttings taken at a node. Find a node — the ridged band where a leaf and an aerial root emerge — and cut just below it so the cutting includes at least one node and ideally one leaf and an aerial root. A cutting without a node will never root.

Root the cutting in water, changing it weekly, or in damp sphagnum moss; new roots appear over four to eight weeks, after which you pot it into chunky aroid mix. Tucking the aerial root into the medium helps it establish, and the parent plant branches from the cut.

Common problems

  • New leaves stay small with no holes or splits

    Likely cause: Not enough light, an immature plant, or no support to climb — fenestration develops as the plant matures and ascends.

    Fix: Give it brighter indirect light and a moss pole, and feed in the growing season; mature climbing stems produce the big split leaves.

  • Yellowing leaves

    Likely cause: Most often overwatering and soggy compost; can also follow underwatering or low light.

    Fix: Check the soil and the pot's drainage, let it dry further between waterings, and remove the worst-affected leaves.

  • Brown, crispy leaf edges

    Likely cause: Low humidity, dry-then-wet watering, or a build-up of salts from hard tap water.

    Fix: Raise humidity, water more evenly with rainwater, and flush the pot occasionally.

  • Droplets of water on leaf edges

    Likely cause: Guttation — the plant shedding excess water, usually after a generous watering. It is harmless.

    Fix: Nothing needed, though it can be a hint you are watering a little heavily.

Frequently asked questions

Why doesn't my Monstera have holes in its leaves?

Fenestration — those famous holes and splits — only develops as the plant matures and climbs. A young Monstera, or one grown in dim light with nothing to climb, makes solid heart-shaped leaves. Give it bright light and a moss pole and the holes follow.

What are the aerial roots on my Monstera for?

They anchor the climbing stem to trees and help it absorb moisture in the wild. Indoors you can guide them into a moss pole or the pot, tuck them out of sight, or trim the longest ones — removing a few does no harm.

Does a Monstera deliciosa need a moss pole?

It doesn't strictly need one to survive, but a damp moss pole mimics the tree trunk it would climb and encourages bigger, more deeply fenestrated leaves. Without support, the stem sprawls and the leaves tend to stay smaller.

Is a Monstera the same as a split-leaf philodendron?

Despite the old nursery name, no — Monstera deliciosa is a separate genus from true philodendrons, though both are aroids with similar care. The ASPCA even files it under 'Cutleaf Philodendron', which adds to the confusion.

Sources

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